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DAY OF PRAYER AT ANAFORA  

     Catherine White, mfic.

While I was living in Heliopolis in Egypt, I was able to participate in some spirituality days with the community who celebrated Sunday liturgy in our Chapel.  Earlier this year I accompanied a group of about ten people to a Coptic Orthodox retreat centre “Anafora”, about two hours north of Cairo on the Alexandria desert road.   The group was a mixture of nationalities:  American, English, Nigerian, Egyptian, Filipino and Indian. We left Cairo at about 8.00am and managing to bypass the horrendous traffic arrived at about 10.00 am.  One of the highlights of the trip is always passing the pyramids. I find it so surprising that the pyramids which I always imagined to be in the middle of desert are in the middle of suburbia!

Anafora is a large retreat centre run by the Coptic Orthodox Church, but available to all Christians.  There is an atmosphere there which is different to anything I had ever experienced.  Set in the aridity of the desert landscape and yet flourishing as a productive farm, it invites the visitor to enter the tradition of monastic prayer and solitude which had its home in the deserts of Egypt. Pilgrims from many European countries visit Anaphora to experience the quiet solitude of this desert retreat.

It is a very large complex. There is the large section, Anafora where we were, as well as a conference centre, Anastasia, and a newish day centre, Anamnesis.  Bishop Thomas designed it all using the building methods the people of Asyut use to build their houses. They make bricks of red mud and straw and when they are dry they build using a mortar of mud also.  Then they coat the whole building in more mud mixed with a fine straw so it has an adobe look.  It is really cool inside and particularly good in a place where rain never falls! The layout is extraordinary. 

There is a group of small huts where visitors can stay while on retreat.  They are set out in the shape of a question mark.  At the end the dot of the question mark is a small round chapel. The pilgrim is invited to take time with the deeper questions of one’s life and relationship with God.  It is surrounded by a blue concrete moat which runs through the retreat centre.  That is quite amazing in itself.  Water is pumped from underground springs and left in the channels for a few days – it gives a beauty and coolness to the place and visitors can relax beside cool waters.  Then it is pumped out onto the fruit trees and crop which help the centre to be self funding.

The setting is so interesting.  Since it is in desert there is no grass or gardens per se, but between the dates trees they have placed tableaux of large water jugs which look great.  They have built rough shade houses that are just sticks with palm branches on top of the roof supports so they look like Aboriginal shade houses. Under them they place a few cane chairs and perhaps a table or two, and the ever present ceramic jugs. Some of the seats are old wooden plough seats so it is all very different.

On the outside of the Church are about 6 brightly coloured paintings that look like mosaics on the back outside wall.  The designs are made up using just the iota – from the Scriptures – not one iota of the law will be lost.  Apparently there is a class somewhere that teaches this as a particular art form.

The theme of the day was a reflection on the direction of our lives. We had a session before lunch and two afterwards. We used the images of the satellite dish, the compass, and the labyrinth to help us to trace the journey of our lives so far, and to chart our desired route forward.  I found Egyptians to be deeply spiritual people. They take very seriously the heritage of the flight of the holy family into Egypt.  Egypt is a place where pilgrimages are popular.  It is as if we, like the holy family, travel to find a place of respite and grace.  It is a “back to basics” kind of place where the harshness of the climate and the simplicity of the landscape invite a profound pondering on the meaning of one’s life.

We were lucky enough to arrive when Bishop Thomas was there visiting another group.  He took time to speak with us about the Christian life.  He is an inspiring and engaging minister of the Gospel. His face radiates a calm gentleness and holiness. As always a wonderful traditional lunch was provided: a meal of hardboiled eggs, olives, oven roasted eggplant, hummus, flat bread and dates, with little dishes of herbs to sprinkle.  It was a good day.        

                                                           View of the Pyramids from the bus                              Retreat Group at Prayer in the main chapel         

The Center is set out in a question mark design.  A small round chapel forms the ‘dot’ of the question mark.  The floor is completely covered by mats are woven from rags by the poor and sold for money.  The effect is pleasing and comfortable.

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